Lots of happenings in the last three weeks!  I’m doing this post in list form because it’s really more about what we did and where than my random thoughts and opinions about life like usual.

– We left Tahoe and headed straight to the International Climber’s Festival.  I gave a short 15min talk as part of a TED talk inspired event with Henry Barber, Cedar Wright, Erica Wynn, Timmy O’Neil, and Tommy Caldwell.  It was really hard for me to get my point across in that short a time but I think I did alright.

landerWild Iris

– We drove to Ten Sleep and climbed for a week.  Ten Sleep is a real cowboy town.  As in there are legitimate cowboys there who own ranches and wear boots with spurs and go to rodeos and have mustaches not because it’s a trendy funny thing to grow one but because real cowboys have real mustaches.  Adrian did his first 12a, 12b, and 12c all flash.  I onsighted two 5.13s and redpointed 4 more on my 2nd try.  People say Ten Sleep is soft.  I prefer to think we were just being rad that week.  I love it there.

Ten SleepDowntown Ten Sleep

– Next stop was Boulder, where I was born and raised and lived for 25 years of my life.  We hung out with my parents, saw about a million friends, went to fun dinners, and went climbing.  It was a bit of a whirlwind, and I think that right now Boulder is an awesome place for me to visit, but not for me to live – HA!  I seem to appreciate my family and friends there now more than before, probably because they’re no longer conveniently located down the street anymore, so I make the most of my quality time with them when I am there.

– We did the Diamond in a day.  1 am wake-up, drove from Boulder to the trailhead, hiked 4.5 miles, soloed the North Chimneys to Broadway Ledge, climbed Pervertical Sanctuary, hiked the additional hour to summit Longs Peak (my first 14’er ever), and got lost at every possible point on the way down.  We were home at my parents’ house at 8:30pm.  Not too shabby.  I was stoked to swap leads with Adrian the entire time on Pervertical, and to be able to onsight the crux pitch on lead.  Crack climbing is still heinously intimidating and hard for me to understand; and 5.11 trad at over 13,000 ft with 1,200 ft of exposure was a real mental battle for me personally. Then I watched the video of Steph Davis soloing it and I felt kinda lame.  But not really.  I actually loved every moment and can’t wait to do more.

DiamondThe view from Broadway Ledge at sunrise

– I trained with Kris Peters of Team of 2 the very next day after the Diamond at Movement and got completely crushed.  Here’s the video:

– After three short but action-packed days in Boulder we drove to Rifle for a climber’s BBQ in honor of the marriage of Jen Vennon and Andrew Bisharat, some of my best friends in the whole world.  Being back in Rifle felt oddly welcoming and yet disconnecting at the same time.  I spent so much of my climbing life there and it felt almost more like revisiting an old home than Boulder did.

– We climbed at Independence Pass the next day and I felt awful and exhausted.  A little flu-like and I noticed that I had a rash on my stomach.  I thought it was poison ivy or something from Ten Sleep, but it didn’t feel right.  I had a mini mental breakdown about it, there were some tears and then we left.  I self diagnosed myself with Shingles via and we went to the hospital in Aspen.  Lo and behold, I was right and $730 later I had a prescription for antiviral medication and was told that I was exhausted and my immune system was run down, which allowed the virus – a form of Chickenpox that stays in all of us who’ve had it – to reactivate into the super painful shingles rash.  So…..that sucked.

– We went to Jen and Andrew’s wedding the next day and it was awesome.  We danced for hours and I drank a fair amount of tequila, which helped me forget that I was sick until the next morning.  We were supposed to climb in Rifle for two days but I felt bad enough to want to go home so we drove to Salt Lake City and were planning to head home the next day.

Jen Jen walking down the aisle

– Instead, I started feeling a little better and we stayed in Park City at a friend’s condo through the OR tradeshow.  I had some meetings and was signed up to do the Psicocomp event that weekend.  I was thinking to bail on the comp but then all my friends (ie Britney Griffith) told me to stop being lame.  So I did the comp and it was amazing.  I climbed pretty poorly in finals, but I actually topped the route in qualifiers and took the massive leap from the top of the wall.  That was enough to convince me that competition climbing has reached a new and awesome turning point.   I loved the fun atmosphere of the crowd and venue, the element of fear involved, and the supportive attitudes of the competitors.  It was a great event to participate in and I really hope I get to do it again next year.

JUMPTaking the LEAP (Angie Payne photo)

– Now I’m home, climbing, running, mountain biking, etc.  Next week is my birthday (I’ll be 27. OMG) and we’re going to the HULK.  Hopefully I don’t fall out of the Red Dihedral like Joe Kinder did, but it’s ok if I do cause I’m still a trad gumby and I accept that.  SUMMERTIMESTOKE is still in effect!!!!!!!!


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